Where's my wheel barrow? E5 time!

Had two days in a row up at Tynrich slabs and had great weather both days, it dosnt get huge amount of traffic as it is abit of a jungle bash/slog up heathery hill to get to but when you do the routes are worth it! Even more so now as paul and I spent abit of time on shunts scrubing it clean and digging out some of the cracks.

Lorraine did well to get there without falling apart after 3 hours sleep the night before but it was worth it in the end! We did a quick warm up and then i did schist is a newt which didnt feel too bad for E3 6a, i was expecting more jubilation when i got to the top but it never came, time for something harder to get the blood pumping.

Paul cruising Blewit

Paul and i turned up at lunchtime today after slogging up in winter boots, bad idea... Both of us spent the first while cleaning, paul cleaned Blewit E2 5c and i set to work on Slippery Jack E5 6a. Paul seemed matter of fact about it pulled on a few holds gave it a quick clean and got set to lead it as it all seemed good. Nice move after nice move through all of it up to the middle where he placed a nut which he told me was marginal and got into the crux sequence, slowed marginally for half a minute and then blasted to the top. When i got to the nut it was a 0.25 put in sideways i was suprised it was holding the wait of the quickdraw, would have made for an entertaining fall!! Another E2 5c in the bag.

Before first lead

I spent abit longer cleaning up the small slopey crimps of slippery jack and marked out a few of what i thought might be key foot holds. Had a couple of go's on top rope and was determined i could do it. I had considerd using a side runner to stop me hitting the floor from the first crux but that was nerves talking,paul and i had a quick chat and it was out of my mind id be fine until just after half height where i got the key touching nuts that protects the further hard moves out and up to the top. Guide book says bold and we found out why... First 2m are easy and then its 10m of continuous 6a yet it felt alright. Got through the first crux fine up to the key nut which you could take a huge lob onto its that good, right beside it i worked another nut in which isnt amazing but i figured it would make it harder for the first nut to come out. The final 4m or so felt quite good until i got within 6 inches of the top, the lip was just above my hand and no more but i had wrong handed myself on the final 2 holds with high feet. Tried to adjust my hands but it was pretty much friction holding me on, tried to lower a foot, no chance, tried to adjust my hand again and the inevitable happened. Just enough time to let Paul know and i was off, it 9m screamed past until the rope came tight and i came to a stop in fits of hysteric laughter and screaming from both of us. I had no idea bodys fell so fast, as in freakishly fast. As i peeled off the top hold i could see the rope way below me and paul pull in slack as he moved back but it was all over odly fast. Biggest adrenaline rush of my life it was awsome!! Another lesson learned though, i will never solo anything again in my life, you would hit the floor insanly fast and hard!

Felt absolutly fine(I now realise i have scuffed up arms and fingers, shoes and bruised knees) pulled the rope down, Paul went and stripped the gear for me and i got straight back on it. It all went smoothly got to the nut and rest where i thaught about resting but knew if i waited about too long i could psych myself out so a quick shake out and carried on. Wasnt gonna make the same mistake twice and payed attention to the final sequence. Awsome day and delighted to have my first E5 of the year, next on the list, The Prow.