Monday, August 11, 2008

West coast and new line at tynrich


Busy period trying to make use of any weather thats going. Out on the west coast stewart and I spent the day at Loch tollaidh, beautiful place and scenery the west has to be one of the best if not the best place in Britain.I climbed crossroads E5 6b which felt painfully hard on crimps up an overhang but was a really cool route, so its clean just now if anybody is interested. Stewart also continued his strong form with 2 more E1s before we moved together on what must be one of the best slabs around. Highly recommended.
We then spent the next day in midge hell whilst i finished a route I had been working on and stewart worked and climbed his first E2. The line takes the blank wall towards the far end of the slabs. A relativly easy start takes you to a small crack left of Scorpion a runner here protects you thoughout the crux of a rising ramp of crystals and razor crimps until better holds and gear are reached, I preplaced this wire before the lead due to the fact I knew if i fell trying to place it you would be looking at aroung a 6-7m fall, this is not that bad but there is a ledge roughly 5m below the crux so a fall from anywhere from the crux sequence(long) or above would result in most likely broken ankles and or legs. Once the good holds are reached a shake out and then the route continues directly up again into probably a 6a sequence once again above gear. Its the hardest route iv climbed recently without doubt, a few months back i climbed the E5 6a on the same wall,cant remember the name, and it dosnt even compare, the fall was safer too...however I will say E5 6b but feedback would be appreciated. Called it Penultimate Demons. Also climbed another line in the sameish area, Flirtations with fate (E3 5c) which resulted in the sheath of my rope being torn wide open! Il put the picture on when i find it.