Winter sessions and the dusty boulder

Second day in a row up at Brin(Nick and I are becoming far to regular we are even starting to make comments about brin that sound scarily like Mike and Ben!) and it had got even colder, snow topped boulders and bitter cold temperatures. Friction was however awsome when you warmed up the fingers, annoyingly a fair few lines we were keen to get on were icey wet from snow melt so completely useless!

Headed up to the happy boulder with the intention of starting the day there again untill we decided to have a quick look round the corner, the quick look turned into a snowy jungle bash in all direstions, over boulders under boulders falling down holes untill Nick dissapared into a hole and climbed up a tunnel and found something worth while! After nearly an hour of brushing it was fittingly named the Dusty Boulder. We spent all this time with hats over our noses and mouths whilst we franticly brushed and then stood back whilst massive dust clouds tried to choke us. It was well worth it, under the 3 inches of crap that coated the whole boulder there were 2 obvious lines with a possible third direct up the face which would require serious work. As we started to uncover possible holds we thaught they may be reasonably easy routes but still of good quality, the more we unearthed the less we found!

Picture on the right is what we dicovered! The right line makes a hard move off of a crimp and sideways sharp flake up the obvious line of holds to the top, Nick nipped in to make the first ascent, i flashed it after him Mushroom Cloud V4 is a cool route with a dubious flake at the top, pull on it at your own risk, neither of us used it as it craked and flexed under pressure!

Bottom moves of Mushroom Cloud V4

Mushroom Cloud has a lower start out of a pit that would be possible although it would be a serious fall if it occoured. The fall may happen when you were only a metre or so off the bottom of the pit but you would land on a spikey boulder and then you would bounce down a tunnel on your head until you stoped 4 or so metres later. But if any1 wants to try it il come watch and spot and provide a mat any day of the week.

Nick on the starting holds of Mushroom Cloud

Next line is on the left edge of the face which initially looked to be of the same sort of standard however after more cleaning it was clear that it was going to be alot harder. A sloping ledge leads(via a powerful move) to a line of thin razor sharp flakes half a pad deep so require painful crimps. Up from this the holds improve slightly to gain the lip and pull over direct. Nick made good progress and managed to keep skin on the pads all the way to the finishing holds to unluckily fail just short of pulling over due to the wet(the top out had been under a thick carpet of moss). After we both spent an hour cleaning it, it also claimed nicks trusty toothbrush, he wasnt going to leave without getting up it, after a good rest it went!, with it looking painful all the way. Gold Dust earns every part of its V7 grade.

Nick composed reaching the final holds on the FA Gold Dust V7

The Dusty Boulder is quite hard to find as it is hidden from view if you are above it and only the top can be seen from below. To find it from above walk up to the right hand side of the prow and walk directly right for 50 to 60m the Dusty boulder is down on your right hand side, most easily spotted by its newly cleaned top. Best method to get to the base of it is fall off the top, or walk round to the far edge and descend carefuly down a chute to the base but be warned!!! at the bottom of the chute there is a big hole i described earlier that if you fall down you wil come out the other end broken. Or from the bottom pass the big roof project and walk pass what i believe to be the boulder with skredriver on it, from here the boulder is up on your left hand side and you have to climb up to get to it. Brin is getting bigger and bigger and there are still plenty more lines, I have a few that are yet to be cleaned So get out there! Jamie