The Mini Mecca

Project 1moving out onto the face

Clear blue skys, freezing cold temperatures, there was only one place to head today and that was to brin boulders. I say this as Mike and Ben refer to it as "The Mecca" of scottish bouldering and i must admit i am coming round to their way of thinking i like it more and more every time i go and there is still loads of potential (most of the big lines if you fall off you will end up in a hole but thats part of the challenge i supose).

With plenty skin and psyche levels way up, Nick and I headed up the hill(after i fell over the fence) to the Happy boulder which has a good variety of superb problems, after a quick warm up on Rhuaridh's Crack and Carpet Slab, we moved attention to The Dreaded Dreadlock V4 which was promtly flashed thankfully, although the top out feels decidedly dodgy and a long way for the misplaced boulder mats below. Next was Spirited V5 which didnt fall so easily, Nick flashed it with ease the other day yet neither of us could work out how, but after 10 minutes it was done! We then tried Mikes new problem from last week, the un-named direct start (v7)to the dyno, a powerful move at the bottom leads to a short sequence then finishing with a Big dyno over an okish landing. Nic did all the moves up to the start of the dyno but couldnt commit to the dyno (understandably as he is going a way in 2months so needs both ankles), i can however stick the dyno but failed on the move to it, i had the hold well, held it for a second and then peeled off, felt so close to latching it as once i had it the route was over as iv done the rest.But it wasnt to be, so if the rain stops il be up there tommorow to finish it off!!!

Nick on the desperate finish to project 1

Over on the porcupine boulder i spotted a new line that with a good clean looked to be a good problem. Porcupine takes a rightward and upward slanting traverse to the obvious weakness however "Sting in the tail" starts down in the very back left of the boulder(possible same starting holds??) and takes a line of very sharp sloping holds along the lip of the overhang until a crystal sharp arete is reached that helps you make a powerful move to gain the top of the scorpian crack and pull over direct. Its a good pumpy problem that took abit of work and plenty of heel hooks. Painfully sharp slopers that lead to 7 taped fingers a painful loss of skin. Looked like Nic was going to beat me to it but failed just short of the finish due to being to tired from the second project. We agreed on V5 it does however appear to be slightly harder than Scorpian also graded V5 but either way its a cool line on an excellent boulder. We also looked at a harder variation that may seem slightly eliminate but when it goes will be a truly awsome line! After taking the slopers along the lip the line continues onto the blank face(without the use of the arete) where desperate tiny slopers lead to the top, Nic came agonisingly close and it will be sent within another session or 2 i am certain.Looks to be about v6/7. Project 2 is a direct start to this coming out under the buldge onto tiny crimps to reach the slopers to gain the top. Looks very hard.... We will be back on it soon. Just before leaving i set about cleaning another line that looks to be good but was soaking wet as it was under inches of moss! There are more projects to be had, get out there!! Jamie

Sting in the Tail