Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Farr away boulder

Had a great day of sunning ourselves, eating, dishing out abuse, finger shredding and a slight bit of climbing thrown in for good messure. One new route to report which is a good one and we worked hard on the other 2(prob both about V6/Font 7a) but neither went as fingers and pads started to fall apart, Lorraines in impressive style. So the left and right sides of the hard face are still up for grabs and if your a complete beast you may manage a line up the centre(warn u though does not look very dooable unless your name is sharma or macleod). If your beastly enough to manage that there is another line to the right side of Breathless. Trudged along to check out the other boulders but nothing as good as this one, there is a smaller one that i will clean on a off day that will probably give a few dynamic looking problems.

11.Flapper? V3 (J. Murray) 14/05/08 very right edge of roadside face direct

Right side project, now shiny clean

Directions... Drive through farr traveling in the Brin direction. Half a mile or so out of Farr take a left, signposted Garbole. Drive up this road for roughly half a mile on the right hand side forrestry commision has just felled a huge area 10 minutes into this from the road is the boulder.

It now has 11 problems on it with potential for maybe 4 more hard ones, great for an evening session as it gets the sun but will definetly entertain for a few hours whatever time of the day. Jamie


Nick said...

Heh Jamie, checked out your boulder this evening. Good cleaning job, a great spot and some cool problems too. Took a similar line to your problem 'Greed' but with a sitting start and hand traverse the lip with heel hooks and pull on slab at the big hold at corner. Try it! cheers Nick

Henry said...

hi jamie
what a good find, wonderfull rock quality n good probs. i kind of did one of your projects just left of the crack but in your pic you seem to be further left whereas i went straight up the shallow scoop above the wee arete, very tenuous smearing to step up onto `broken edge n still thin above, about v4/5, not sure really