Jamie Murray, Climbing

30th Jan Cow hill no cow on hill

2010-02-16T22:30:00.002Z

Jo and I headed up Glen Nevis and walked up to the top of cow hill, stunning blue skies(that soon changed) and scenery but a beasting walk...

28th Jan Lower roy

2010-02-16T22:20:00.002Z

G and I headed downt o the Etive as all the river levels said they were a scrape. Drove all the way there and this was not the case at all... It wasnt too big but in our little boats we would have taken abit of a beating and considering it was about -4C We wernt up for it. So we skulked off tail between our legs to go and do something else so the day wasnt wasted. We went and ran the Lower Roy as it had been fun the week before but this time it was at normal levels so was alot more fun as things wernt so bony and it had quite abit of force behind it in some places. A fair amount of holes seemed to appear as well!! Will be even more fun with even more water and bigger volume boats. You cant have it all though.

Jan 20th Lower Roy and Middle Spean

2010-02-16T22:00:00.003Z

Making use of the rain some more, Gerry, Chris, G and I went and paddled the Lower Roy into the Middle Spean. It was low so was fine for a first run down. Most sections were grade 2 with 2 really good grade 3s... play boats are sinky.... Properly freezing as the rivers are full of melt water.

Change for the blog. 18th Jan Lower Nevis

2010-02-16T21:52:00.003Z

I need an ongoing blog of all activities for uni course work so now for the next little while its not just climbing its whatever we happen to get up to...

18th Jan, after the huge cold spell came a huge thaw which meant the lower nevis was pumping so was finally worth the effort of going down it in a boat to see what it was like! I headed out with G and we both stood at the lower falls and chickened out.

We have to run it some time this year. Was a pleasant day but totally baltic as can be seen....

The 09 trad season

2009-09-18T19:45:00.013+01:00

Summer 09 season was good and I havn't updated this in forever so this is a brief round up with a lot missed out. I was due to be going back to the University of Chichester but things changed and I decided to stay in Scotland and move to Fort William to finish my degree, not just for its climbing potential, there were other reasons aswell! With the thought of moving to the wettest part of the world at the end of the season I tried to pack a bit in!

Got a good few early season crisp days in ~Glen Nevis (now local crag) did Ausafartenjesusbarten among other things 170m with a total of 14 bits of gear in the route made for an interesting day. Climbed The Palmist (E4 6b) at Cummingston, a route that had always appealed to me but was a shame to discover its just one crux and then loose nothingness above to the topout. In the same week did a new E4 at Tynrich and then climbed the unclimbed start to Trumpet of the Dead which was 8m unprotected slab with a british 6a crux at the top. For that reason I thought it felt necky (at least E5) but apparently Mr Julian Lines of Slab Monsters Limited thought E4, scary and brave man.

Spent two days in Reiff with wee Jamie and had an amazing time and piled in a ridiculous amount of routes including an amazing slab in black rocks, im sure you know the one I mean. Truely awsome experience with big swell and blue skys proving the perfect climbing atmosphere and experience

Between all this managed to fit alot of not climbing in which has been amazing, went to Malta with Jo with the idea of a few bits of dws and chilled out instead! Rockness was amazing we will be back! Jo and I got away in the newly half finished van for a week on the west coast and got perfect weather the whole time and even managed to get Jo on her first outdoor climb over at Tollaidh.

Managed to get a few days over on the west in some amazing conditions, over at Mungasdale both Paul and I climbed Three Kings which comes highly recommended, awsome line and awsome day considering it was Pauls first E5! Then alot happened that I cant remember and I don't seem to have any pictures of but gradually got stronger over the summer and settled into trad then spent a great day at loch Tollaidh up at Fraggle Rock and climbed a crimpy Paul Tattersal route, Tall In The Saddle E6 6b making it my first and achieving the grade which has always been my ultimate goal in climbing grades. Nice to get it done but not for the reason I thought, having achieved my goal it meant I stopped looking at grades and started climbing things because I wanted too! Nice feeling!

Got out for some great days out in Torridon and found a line that I really want to work on, I know the sequence I've got the strength to do it. I just need to work on some serious yoga and core strength to try and stick it. Need to get better and I reckon it will be next years project, it has the line, the location and the right amount of fear inducing positions to make it interesting. Whilst there I held the ropes for Dave whilst he put up a new E8 and E9, Koleus is something I would love to improve enough to climb and I reckon it will be one of my goals for the next 2 to three years. It's the best arete lines I've seen and after seeing it done I want a piece of it. Goal number 2!Pic by claire Macleod hope you dont mind that I pinched a shot of it.

Got down to the Peak district briefly to catch up with Phil and true to form it rained alot! Good climbing though when it wasnt raining and I have a few things I want to go back to do. Phil was climbing well and kept going back for more totally unphased even after two whippers off of a cool line. Went back in the morning though and he cruised it. This pic is from the night before as he was stripping the gear.I felt like I was going quite well and came away with my first E7 which was cool. Little Jamie learnt alot about grit and its weirdness we need to go back for unfinished business! Short steep and powerful, which suits my style nicely which helped me out.

Back from the grit, I found a project near by that I set about working on, it may have seemed eliminate to others as I could traversed a few feet to the side and use a big arete but for me that didn't matter I wanted to try and climb this line. Spent forever trying to land a dyno from a two finger one pad undercut and a mono to a slopey jug. It was somewhere in the region of 80 attempts before I stuck it for the first time. So set about trying to lead it, I have now taken the fall from the dyno 8 times... should i get another chance while its dry and im free over in Inv I know I can do it next time.

I've now moved to Fort William and the weather has been dire so I'm hitting Kimbers as much as possible to try and get strong and get ready for whatever may come over the winter (no long walk ins), been getting into paddling as well so at least I now have a sport for when it rains and thankfully the boys I'm going with give me an absolute schooling so I should stay in one piece for the climbing. The weather has been immense the last week and I have been stuck in with suspected flu of the swine so iI've missed it all. Gutted! As soon as im back fit the training begins!

The ultimate fuel!!

Winter part 1

2008-11-09T16:46:00.004Z

Paul and i got out 2 weeks go with the first cold snap and it proved to be a good one! 3 hours to get to the bottom of the route though due to having to park at the bottom car park as the road was ungritted and we just made it that far and then waste deep snow to trudge through.

We did Jacobs edge since it seemed a sensible grade for our first scottish winter, good fun if not abit easy but we picked out some harder bits to make it more interesting. Perfect day and conditions there arte very few of them in Scotland but we found one of them, only problem was swimming through the powder on the easier angled parts of the route.

Truely heaven!Everything is out again and looks like 2 weeks before anything will be back from what iv heard. who knows, but for now its inside to to try and get stronger for trad time i already miss it and have been looking for a project.

Its coming....

2008-10-26T20:40:00.001Z

its in the air...

West coast and new line at tynrich

2008-08-11T20:33:00.003+01:00

Busy period trying to make use of any weather thats going. Out on the west coast stewart and I spent the day at Loch tollaidh, beautiful place and scenery the west has to be one of the best if not the best place in Britain.I climbed crossroads E5 6b which felt painfully hard on crimps up an overhang but was a really cool route, so its clean just now if anybody is interested. Stewart also continued his strong form with 2 more E1s before we moved together on what must be one of the best slabs around. Highly recommended.

We then spent the next day in midge hell whilst i finished a route I had been working on and stewart worked and climbed his first E2. The line takes the blank wall towards the far end of the slabs. A relativly easy start takes you to a small crack left of Scorpion a runner here protects you thoughout the crux of a rising ramp of crystals and razor crimps until better holds and gear are reached, I preplaced this wire before the lead due to the fact I knew if i fell trying to place it you would be looking at aroung a 6-7m fall, this is not that bad but there is a ledge roughly 5m below the crux so a fall from anywhere from the crux sequence(long) or above would result in most likely broken ankles and or legs. Once the good holds are reached a shake out and then the route continues directly up again into probably a 6a sequence once again above gear. Its the hardest route iv climbed recently without doubt, a few months back i climbed the E5 6a on the same wall,cant remember the name, and it dosnt even compare, the fall was safer too...however I will say E5 6b but feedback would be appreciated. Called it Penultimate Demons. Also climbed another line in the sameish area, Flirtations with fate (E3 5c) which resulted in the sheath of my rope being torn wide open! Il put the picture on when i find it.

Going back on my word

2008-07-31T11:52:00.003+01:00

I had previously said I would never solo anything after seeing how fast a person falls, im still not a huge fan of the idea of watching someone solo but everything has its time and place. I soloed my first E5 the other day but I only because I had no doubt in my mind. All part of making a better climber if you can keep your head together then it may help in another situation where you cant afford to freak and loose your bottle. The way i see it is I wasnt soloing, the route is protected by a sky hook, I dont have a sky hook... so i lead it but didnt have the right gear.

Round up

2008-07-29T11:41:00.004+01:00

Spent some time at ruthven as usual last week and it eventually came together, just before I lost all of the skin I owned. Did another finish from the jug of dude/dude direct out right and up to a horrible airy mantel, its yet another locals eliminate ofcourse but good all the same as i found it to be a fair bit harder than the original finish. I did it from a jumping start to try and work out the sequence and once i had done it once sat down and tried to work through dude direct into it to make it as awkward as possible, it took me about 10 goes to stick the dyno as it was so muggy but 44 midge bites and an hour later it was done. From catching the dyno match the jug and move right to crimps, high rock over to poor side pull and up again to small flake and then mantel. Like I said its a another locals eliminate but certainly makes dude direct sustained and if you did the dude satrt into it it might make it a grade harder.

Good news for Stewart yesterday as he climbed his first E1 in the sunshine of cummingston, done in fine style with little effort. I got in an E4 at the same time and wer off back again today to work on something a little harder.

V9!

2008-07-09T22:21:00.005+01:00

Progress is being made all round on the bouldering front in Inverness, by the time the new season comes round there is the potential for some hard repeats and new lines all round. Back up at Ruthven within 20 hours of the last session so was very conscious of how long my skin would last. The realisation that Lorraine came minus her shoes could have ended the day right there but she managed to put up with a pair of mine for the evening and climbed extremely well considering!

Agonisingly close early on

After a couple of warm up routes got back on Dude Direct V9 after first trying it yesterday, with a few hours rest it seemed more manageable but still hard. Was distraught 15 minutes later after catching the hold and holding the swing all the way to the point where i came back into the wall and sure enough fell off!! A quick lie down in disbelief sorted my head out and next go held it even longer before coming off. Ben and I had the conversation yesterday of the point you reach in your mind that is like a light coming on and you know you will do it next go. I struggle to see how this happens and I suppose nobody really knows why or how it happens or if it really happens at all. You may or may not know what im talking about or you may think im talking rubbish but its a strong force in my eyes. Sure enough next time I held the swing and it felt suprisingly positive as did all the holds to the top, I was still very conscious not to blow it on the top mantle but got there! A happy boy after my first V9 and really pleased to get the second repeat especially after Ben getting the first repeat in the day before.

Crux Dyno(Big thank you to Lorraine for the perfectly timed photo)

Once i came back down i had to prove a point to myself that it wasnt a fluke so after a two minute rest to get rid of the pump got back on it and did it again first go and it felt even better and smoother the second time!!! Awsome day and now psyche is at an all time high, its time to find a project get strong and get even more psyched!!

Boulderers in the mist.

2008-07-09T10:48:00.006+01:00

Spent most of yesterday looking at the sky trying to work out which direction to go after the boys finished work, in the end we took the "safe" option and stayed close and went up to Ruthven so I could show them a new roof i had found. True to form it was lashing down as we arrived but we were already there so it was worth a look, long story short it was rubbish and we had spent just over an hour walkin too and from it. Atleast the weather had got better though!

Jeds Traverse

Ruthven is really good as the way its sits it always has something dry after showers which allows you to climb and thankfully yesterday the temperature was quite low aswell which helped with the small holds. Ben had pointed out the "mythical" Jeds traverse V7 last time i was up which looked good, proved to be better than it looked and went 4th go! I did however get so pumped i tried to fall off the top out which is probably only V1 on jugs! Rich also finished it off a few minutes later with alot less pump and flapping about.

Back on Dude direct V9 and it didnt take too long for it to get its 1st repeat(as far as we know) from Ben who looked comfortable all the way.Rich was also agonisingly close to getting it so it looks like it will get done again very soon. Just watching elements to see what its like and then back off up to get on it again as for a split second I thought id held the swing yesterday. Ben on Dude Direct

Update Dude...

2008-07-04T22:37:00.006+01:00

Alot has happened in the last month and a half but i havnt been botherd to put anything on.

I totally lost my head for trad after falling and ran scared off a vs, paul climbed his first E4, lorraine her first Vs and Stewart his first HVS, i also learned how to super glur flappers.... the right way, got my head back and found a new project to go at and yet i still have the imprint of whatever it was that was forced into my arse when i hit that ledge. Had 2 weeks off climbing and felt weak from it but got it back, we all got melted in a 33'C tent/sauna at 6 in the morning and thats about all... Now its time for climbing with 2 trips 2 Northumberland in the pipe line as well as a visit to grit to see what all the hype is about. And i cant be botherd keeping an E log either that went out the window a long time ago.

With the Scottish weather the way it is im tending to sway back towards bouldering as roofs dont get wet as fast! Stewart Ben and i headed up to Ruthven the other night since it was dry, and proved to be a really good night I did Dude and Ben came so close to Dude direct within half an hour and also progressed on the project.

Off out west in the morning to do some sport for a change of pace but i think its time to get back in the gym and try and build some muscle as its probably nealy bouldering season again already. lets be honest the summer isnt exactly scorchio...

On a final note this picture is up for the benefit of Ben and all the Glasgow boys. I codnt do the heel hook on dude in my shoes so ben suggested something small and sure enough first go it stuck... so i owe the credit of this V7 to evolve and bens tiny sized feet, time to change shoes im about to order something 2 sizes smaller for bouldering, maybe solutions?? anybody got any views?

Super glue advice

2008-05-20T11:45:00.002+01:00

Deep flapper in the middle of my middle finger pad from yesterday at ruthven, so after hearing that all you boys super glue split tips thaught id try... cleaned it lifted up the flap and put super glue underneath it and tried to shut it, it felt like my finger was on fire! Surely you cant do that all the time?? If you do im impressed! Do u hold the flap down then glue over the top of it or how do u do it?

The glue said irritant do not get on skin but im pretty certain all super glue says that. Anyone got any advice on how to do it let me know?

Farr away boulder

2008-05-14T20:59:00.003+01:00

Had a great day of sunning ourselves, eating, dishing out abuse, finger shredding and a slight bit of climbing thrown in for good messure. One new route to report which is a good one and we worked hard on the other 2(prob both about V6/Font 7a) but neither went as fingers and pads started to fall apart, Lorraines in impressive style. So the left and right sides of the hard face are still up for grabs and if your a complete beast you may manage a line up the centre(warn u though does not look very dooable unless your name is sharma or macleod). If your beastly enough to manage that there is another line to the right side of Breathless. Trudged along to check out the other boulders but nothing as good as this one, there is a smaller one that i will clean on a off day that will probably give a few dynamic looking problems.

11.Flapper? V3 (J. Murray) 14/05/08 very right edge of roadside face direct

Right side project, now shiny clean

Directions... Drive through farr traveling in the Brin direction. Half a mile or so out of Farr take a left, signposted Garbole. Drive up this road for roughly half a mile on the right hand side forrestry commision has just felled a huge area 10 minutes into this from the road is the boulder.

It now has 11 problems on it with potential for maybe 4 more hard ones, great for an evening session as it gets the sun but will definetly entertain for a few hours whatever time of the day. Jamie

Routes Update

2008-05-13T22:44:00.005+01:00

Spent a few more hours cleaning this afternoon then came home for a rest before getting back up there for an evening session with lorraine! Blue skys fresh air and massive clouds of bugs but perfect friction. We spent the first hour repeating a few lines before moving on to some new ones! I climbed the strenuous crack on the far side of the boulder whilst Lorraine claimed her first new route which starts on the roadside face and takes a long interesting line to top out.

Lorrain on Edge of Envy

9.Twinkle Toes V2 (L. Matheson) 13/05/08 S/S and move up to the bloc pulling over awkwardly round onto the slab above, with a balancy rising traverse to the far side, cool route.

10. Breathless V4 (J. Murray) 13/05/08 Blank slab to awkward crack. Strenuous.

Wolfcrag Pictures

2008-05-12T22:38:00.003+01:00

New boulder

2008-05-10T18:36:00.008+01:00

Spent hours cleaning a newly uncovered boulder with Kirsty, superb quality rock, very sharp but very positive and is producing very good lines, 8 recorded so far with 2 I am working on, but there are alot more... I will report more in the near future.On this boulder alone there are very amenable climbs all the way up to monster power lines.

Lines so far...

Slabby face

1.Sloth V2 (J. Murray) 10/05/08 Direct up the left edge of, thugish

2.Greed V0+/1 (J. Murray) 10/05/08 Gain face and foot traverse to left of the face and assecnd, nice route

3.CharliePig V0 (K. MacPherson) 10/05/08 Take the line of jugs up the centre of the face, enjoyable.

4.Lust V2 (J. Murray) 10/05/08 Sit start to the right of the arete pull up and round onto the face and airy slab above. Standing start V1

Far Side.

5.Edge of Envy V3 (J. Murray) 10/05/08 Layback crack to ridge above

Nearest face

6. Wrath V4 (J. Murray) 10/05/08 Pull over bulge to bottom of blank face dyno time.

7.Gluttony V3 (J. Murray) Sit start then up under over hang without use of the good block on the left, through niche and direct to the highest point

8. Worm Free V2 (K. MacPherson) Left to right traverse

More to follow in the next few days....

Pain.....

2008-05-04T16:14:00.005+01:00

Down the road just now staying with Kirsty for a couple of weeks getting some climbing in in a different area.Went to Birnam Quarry a week ago as it is slabby which i like, its a slate quarry which iv never climber on so always good to try something abit different. The amount of broken bits of slate under the crag should have been an indication of what was to come but its another skill learnd the hard way.

Notice the size of the blocks behind me and to the left side of my head in this picture the amount of loose chunks that i would imagine used to be attached as holds....

Trying to onsight more E3's and hopefully E4's later this year so got on Counting out time which gets 2 stars??? For what!? Lower crack was filled with crap and beasties looks like it hasnt been climbed in a while but reasonable balancy moves on rubbish friction, the guide book says the rock had nearly frictionless qualitys and it is spot on yet again. A few flakey slices were occasionaly coming off but nothing too unsetteling. Got past the peg which is still solid and would be an insane route without, up to the overlap where a couple of bold hard moves leads to the exit crack. Got a cam in below the overlap using pauls theory of better than a kick in the t*ts, and then moved over to point where you pass the overlap.

Tried one way and pulled on a very large VERY loose block and thaught i was going with it, luckily i got off it in time and tried a metre further to the side, found one good hold that i was matched on, right on the lip of the overhang so i was flat back and next thing i knew all four limbs pointing at the sky as the holds and a block about the size of my head were headed southwards along with me. Fell between 6 and 7m before i hit a slabby ledge with full force of my hip/bum. The cam gave way and whipped down the rope at me cutting a nice lump out of one of my knuckles,that was abit of a back fire!!!

Fresh holds from the overlap, now decorate the ground

A scary moment all round as Kirsty who was belaying was pulled forward into the slab and dragged up over a metre off the floor, thankfully managing to hold the rope the whole time she was obviously fine as she started laughing, not sure if it was at me or what....

Not sure if the grade will be any different for whoever gets on it next but there are still plenty loose parts and one very big loose block ready to come off make sure the belayer stands well to the side, dont think a helmet would do much if one of them hit you, either way you would end up with a bent head! Enjoy!

I dont really bruise and cant ever really remember having a bruise! Its a week since it happened and having spent most of the week with a dead leg and a limp I still have 1 bum cheek that is notisably larger than the other, it is also completely yellowy purple green to boot! Thankfully the cuts have stopped seaping so i dont have to stick to everything i wear.Rekon im up to some trad again with a further 2 days planned this week Kirsty and then back up North or maybe west for the weekend. Not sure how my head will be, iv never considered trad to be dangerous but that one shook me abit...

Where's my wheel barrow? E5 time!

2008-04-21T22:07:00.008+01:00

Had two days in a row up at Tynrich slabs and had great weather both days, it dosnt get huge amount of traffic as it is abit of a jungle bash/slog up heathery hill to get to but when you do the routes are worth it! Even more so now as paul and I spent abit of time on shunts scrubing it clean and digging out some of the cracks.

Lorraine did well to get there without falling apart after 3 hours sleep the night before but it was worth it in the end! We did a quick warm up and then i did schist is a newt which didnt feel too bad for E3 6a, i was expecting more jubilation when i got to the top but it never came, time for something harder to get the blood pumping.

Paul cruising Blewit

Paul and i turned up at lunchtime today after slogging up in winter boots, bad idea... Both of us spent the first while cleaning, paul cleaned Blewit E2 5c and i set to work on Slippery Jack E5 6a. Paul seemed matter of fact about it pulled on a few holds gave it a quick clean and got set to lead it as it all seemed good. Nice move after nice move through all of it up to the middle where he placed a nut which he told me was marginal and got into the crux sequence, slowed marginally for half a minute and then blasted to the top. When i got to the nut it was a 0.25 put in sideways i was suprised it was holding the wait of the quickdraw, would have made for an entertaining fall!! Another E2 5c in the bag.

Before first lead

I spent abit longer cleaning up the small slopey crimps of slippery jack and marked out a few of what i thought might be key foot holds. Had a couple of go's on top rope and was determined i could do it. I had considerd using a side runner to stop me hitting the floor from the first crux but that was nerves talking,paul and i had a quick chat and it was out of my mind id be fine until just after half height where i got the key touching nuts that protects the further hard moves out and up to the top. Guide book says bold and we found out why... First 2m are easy and then its 10m of continuous 6a yet it felt alright. Got through the first crux fine up to the key nut which you could take a huge lob onto its that good, right beside it i worked another nut in which isnt amazing but i figured it would make it harder for the first nut to come out. The final 4m or so felt quite good until i got within 6 inches of the top, the lip was just above my hand and no more but i had wrong handed myself on the final 2 holds with high feet. Tried to adjust my hands but it was pretty much friction holding me on, tried to lower a foot, no chance, tried to adjust my hand again and the inevitable happened. Just enough time to let Paul know and i was off, it 9m screamed past until the rope came tight and i came to a stop in fits of hysteric laughter and screaming from both of us. I had no idea bodys fell so fast, as in freakishly fast. As i peeled off the top hold i could see the rope way below me and paul pull in slack as he moved back but it was all over odly fast. Biggest adrenaline rush of my life it was awsome!! Another lesson learned though, i will never solo anything again in my life, you would hit the floor insanly fast and hard!

Felt absolutly fine(I now realise i have scuffed up arms and fingers, shoes and bruised knees) pulled the rope down, Paul went and stripped the gear for me and i got straight back on it. It all went smoothly got to the nut and rest where i thaught about resting but knew if i waited about too long i could psych myself out so a quick shake out and carried on. Wasnt gonna make the same mistake twice and payed attention to the final sequence. Awsome day and delighted to have my first E5 of the year, next on the list, The Prow.

Perfection in a day on the west coast

2008-04-20T21:07:00.004+01:00

Lorraine, Paul and I headed over to Jetty crag for what turned out to be perfect weather ALL day long, arriving at 11ish there was plenty day light to be used, little did i know we would be finishing off at 9pm to a perfect sunset. We started off slow taking 5 hours to lead the first 3 routes!!

Lorraine on Bus Stop, perfect rock Severe

Paul o his first E2 Right Charlie

Dracula

2008-04-20T20:47:00.005+01:00

Paul and i went and did Dracula the other night in perfect sunny conditions, it was however freezing in the wind on the top. Cheers to Rich for the pictures and the use of the nut key, much appreciated!Paul did the first pitch and set a usual house belay in fine form. All was fine untill the Elvis leg set in, in monumental style, that mixed with the final crux and off i came a metre from the finishing jug. I fell to where my feet had been and sure enough i found a foot hold i will be back hopefully this week as i know i have it in the bag.

There are two old blocks with chord through them hammered into the crack of Dracula presumably there from around the time of its first ascent, long story short it now has one block and Paul has a piece of lucky string to remember the day by... All i can say is that its the pumpiest E3 i have ever been on!

Insomnia - Duntelchaig, 70 foot wall

2008-04-09T23:50:00.007+01:00

A line that has been playing on my mind for nearly two weeks now was there again yesterday, I have been desperately keen to get on and try to lead it. I have always climbed better outside than I can on indoor plastic and having climbed 7b inside the day before gave me confidence that I could lead this line at 70 foot wall without a fall. I had top roped some of the top moves 2 weeks previously and found them hard but do-able. I have been on at Lorraine for days to come and hold ropes for me as soon as we get a dry spell, woke up and it was wet yet again so we headed to the wall for a few hours instead. Came home completely exhausted and sat and watched out the window for a few hours as I didn’t have energy for anything else; the sky got lighter and lighter and the ground gradually dried up. A few frantic phone calls later and Dad was on his way home after work and willing to come up with me to see if it was dry.

By the time we made it to the bottom of the route the sky was dark and threatening snow/rain at any point. I ran to the top after getting ready as fast as possible so I could abseil down and see if the holds were dry and usable. Used my jumper to dry off the last little bit of moisture and chalked them in the hope they would stay dry by the time I reached them. I wanted to try the crux once more before I lead it but knew I didn’t have enough energy to do that and then lead it so I bit the bullet and went for it.

The route takes the line of Anne Boleyn’s crack E1 5c to the ledge where gear can be arranged, from this point Anne Boleyn’s carries on up Swastika, (severe) for 8m to the top of the crag. Insomnia takes the arête directly above Anne Boleyn’s Crack, thin, awkward, barn door moves above gear gains the arête and work up this (possible ground fall?) to a decent hold where a dubious cam protects you for a further 3m or 4m to the top. I did not load the cam to see if it would hold, all four teeth were in a pocket just deep enough to cover the four legs but it is slightly flared so may not hold under a shock load.

I have given it E3 5c as up until the ledge the technical grade is 5c and the moves above continue at this level without let up until easier ground at the top is reached. As the moves are sustained at this level along with ground fall potential and the dubious gear I feel it warrants E3. If there wasnt risk of hitting the floor and the cam high up was "safe" then this would be different.As always all of these things are speculative so give it a go and see what you think. There is no record of this route I have trawled far and wide yet should you have done this F.A. then my apologies. I will report it to SMC so it can be included in the revisions and next guide book this also confirms its originality.

By the time I had toped out and started to abseil down to strip it the heavens opened and within minutes the whole thing was wet again I had got it just in time. I now have no skin left so need a few days off to recover, hopefully the weather will improve in the next few weeks so the trad season can begin and we can get on and try some harder routes without the rubbish of damp patches and seeping cracks! Roll on summer! Jamie

Update

2008-04-09T23:49:00.001+01:00

Alot has gone on in the last month. Stewart was up and climbed his first vs in style at cummingston in the freezing cold, in the same day we went to huntleys cave and whilst i was under a roof stewart experienced sunshine, snow, hail, rain, and freezing winds all within the space of minutes. With the rock now soaking we took the exit route through a a tiny tunnel at the back of the cave,stewart just made it through and i lowered him onto the slab below, he then set up a belay which i told him not to bother doing "just attach me to you we dont need anchors it will be fine".Stewart did it anyway and i set off through the whole only just making it and no more, reached the end and saw the 2ish metre drop onto a steep wet slab. tried to climb out and instantly fell and shot off down the slab towards the bottom of the gulley, all i can say is i was very gratefull of stewarts belay stopping me, what made it even more impressive that he stopped me was that whilst trying to climb out he was spotting me with both hands as soon as i fell he grabbed the wrong side of the rope with no friction and managed to hold me.

We also had a trip to tynrich slabs with me insulting stewart in the carpark for having full waterproofs in his bag.... Stewart did scorpion(i think) with the best spaced gear he has ever used, well into the swing of trad now and coming on strong. It then started to rain but i was determined i was having something so got on Chanterelle and quickly found that E3 5a has no gear and is not a comfortable place to be in the wet but hey made it to the top, both still here and another lesson learnt. As stewart put it we are epicing are way through Strathnairn. I got soaked, stewart had waterproofs....

Kirsty has also been a star and come and held ropes for me in the cold whilst i did a couple of routes at duntelchaig, finally tackeling anne boleyns crack (fallen off of it on previous years) which turned out to be a good route. Was back to cummingston for a flying visit with enough time to do one route in the moray sunshine, weather never fails to impress along the coast. Then another day back at 70 foot wall where there were 4 groups! Iv never seen that many climbers at one crag, it was a strange feeling im used to it being silent apart from me and whoever im out with. Met up with stewart again down in Stirling at Cambusbarron quarry for the day, the rock type was unlike anything we have climbed before and we found it tough going to adjust to the new style.Stewart made light work of another vs, definetly time for HVS and I did Ninety-Five E1 yet it was interesting. Lots of other good routes there though, its well reccomended. Think thats everything recently, managed to fit in a suprising amount considering the time of year, long may it continue.

Perfect Day at cummingston

2008-03-10T12:09:00.003Z

Went to cummingston with kirsty for what turned out to be a perfect day, blue skys, dry rock and plenty climbing. Went to orange wall as other end was busy, guide book says"top roping is more common due to poor protection and snappy rock" and " a challenge to finger strength", it was right. protection was dubious as you can see in the picture below. It made for interesting climbing though and the routes had some good moves. Definetly reccomend King swing was alot of fun with really bouldery start. Will be back to do hickory dickory dock in the next few months . Got 6 routes done due to kirstys patience of standing at the bottom holding ropes for me! Thank you! Stewart I know your bouldering well just now and if your a little bit brave i rekon you could easily get Flakey wall, good for a first E1 since its 5a. Tope rope it a couple of times so you feel safe and you would get it no bother, i rekon you would onsight it easily though. No matter where you fall from on the route you wouldnt hit the floor. Worth remembering for next week!! Bring the big pair.

Paul F Log

2008-03-05T17:56:00.005Z

South West Arete E1 5b (Jetty crag)
Right Charlie E2 5c (Jetty crag)
Red Faced E1 5b (Loch Tollaidh)
Buena Vista E2 5b (Loch Tollaidh)
Blewit E2 5c (Tynrich Slabs)
Water Lily E2 5c (Loch Tollaidh)
Strip-Teaser E4 5c (Loch Tollaidh) First E4!!!

Jamie M Log

2008-03-05T17:53:00.018Z

Dynamite E2 5c (Glenmarksie)

Push off E1 5c (Pinnicle) Fell off top section, quite hard.

King Swing E2 5c (Cummingston). Well reccomended

Skelp E2 5c (Cummingston)

Route Two E2 5c (Cummingston) pointless gear

Flakey wall E1 5a (Cummingston)

Orange Peel E1 5b (Cummingston) Looks easier than it is

The Prophet E2 5c (cummingston) crux is hard

Chanterelle E3 5a (Tynrich slabs) Huge fall potential

Eave E1 5b (Duntelchaig)

Anne Boleyns Crack E1 5c (Duntelchaig)

Ninety-Five E1 5b (Cambusbarron, Fourth Quarry)

Insomnia E3 5c (Duuntelchaig)

No Crack E1 5b (Pinnacle) The was a bat in the back of one of the cracks!

Running on empty E2 5c (Jetty crag)

Schist is a newt E3 6a (Tynrich Slabs)

Slippery Jack E5 6a (Tynrich Slabs) 9m fall on forst attempt.

Stewart M Log.

2008-03-05T17:53:00.015Z

Middle Muddle Direct Vs 5a (Cummingston) First vs!!

Scorpian Hs (Tynrich slabs)

Wind Up VS 5a (Cambusbarron Quarry)

E points League

2008-03-05T17:09:00.004Z

Following on from Mike last year, thaught we would follow up this year with the same sort of thing. Not treating it as a competition but more of a logbook among friends so you can record all your routes, and hopefully recommend some of them afterwards so others can go have a go. Hopefully it will give you syche and abit of a drive to get out there and chase those e points whether it be your first ever one or your aiming to hit 50 points in the year. Send me the route name and grade plus whatever else you want(like photos/comments) and il keep it updated. Im sure theres a few beers riding on the outcomes along the way! Anyone is free to join in...

Glenmarksie

2008-03-05T16:49:00.005Z

Paul and i headed out to glenmarksie for the first trad day of the year, blue skies snow topped hils all around, it was perfect apart from some damp patches on the routes but they passable(just). Rob and John also came and joined us and it turned into a great first day back out, lets hope theres alot more days like this to follow! Its the start of the E season, get involved...

Cummingston

2008-01-26T16:48:00.000Z

Not much been happening recently as the weather of the highlands is a complete let down, had enough so i think its time to work southwards soon! Nick and i managed to make use of a break in the weather to get to cummingston, plenty of stuff to go at. Had a quick shot on Bird man before moving onto Massonic finger shake which nick and I both got without too much trouble which was good, first V6 i have done in a while so thats always a bonus. We both Flashed Jaws which is interestingly graded but fun all the same.

Ideas....

As i said fed up of Inverness weather so am planning on abit of a tour about ina few months. Anyone got any ideas.. If you could go anywhere in Britain(europe and america for 14months mid way through next year) where would you go?Including ay must do climbs? Trad, sport or bouldering. Im bored of this place iv been here too long!

Winter sessions and the dusty boulder

2008-01-08T20:22:00.001Z

Second day in a row up at Brin(Nick and I are becoming far to regular we are even starting to make comments about brin that sound scarily like Mike and Ben!) and it had got even colder, snow topped boulders and bitter cold temperatures. Friction was however awsome when you warmed up the fingers, annoyingly a fair few lines we were keen to get on were icey wet from snow melt so completely useless!

Headed up to the happy boulder with the intention of starting the day there again untill we decided to have a quick look round the corner, the quick look turned into a snowy jungle bash in all direstions, over boulders under boulders falling down holes untill Nick dissapared into a hole and climbed up a tunnel and found something worth while! After nearly an hour of brushing it was fittingly named the Dusty Boulder. We spent all this time with hats over our noses and mouths whilst we franticly brushed and then stood back whilst massive dust clouds tried to choke us. It was well worth it, under the 3 inches of crap that coated the whole boulder there were 2 obvious lines with a possible third direct up the face which would require serious work. As we started to uncover possible holds we thaught they may be reasonably easy routes but still of good quality, the more we unearthed the less we found!

Picture on the right is what we dicovered! The right line makes a hard move off of a crimp and sideways sharp flake up the obvious line of holds to the top, Nick nipped in to make the first ascent, i flashed it after him Mushroom Cloud V4 is a cool route with a dubious flake at the top, pull on it at your own risk, neither of us used it as it craked and flexed under pressure!

Bottom moves of Mushroom Cloud V4

Mushroom Cloud has a lower start out of a pit that would be possible although it would be a serious fall if it occoured. The fall may happen when you were only a metre or so off the bottom of the pit but you would land on a spikey boulder and then you would bounce down a tunnel on your head until you stoped 4 or so metres later. But if any1 wants to try it il come watch and spot and provide a mat any day of the week.

Nick on the starting holds of Mushroom Cloud

Next line is on the left edge of the face which initially looked to be of the same sort of standard however after more cleaning it was clear that it was going to be alot harder. A sloping ledge leads(via a powerful move) to a line of thin razor sharp flakes half a pad deep so require painful crimps. Up from this the holds improve slightly to gain the lip and pull over direct. Nick made good progress and managed to keep skin on the pads all the way to the finishing holds to unluckily fail just short of pulling over due to the wet(the top out had been under a thick carpet of moss). After we both spent an hour cleaning it, it also claimed nicks trusty toothbrush, he wasnt going to leave without getting up it, after a good rest it went!, with it looking painful all the way. Gold Dust earns every part of its V7 grade.

Nick composed reaching the final holds on the FA Gold Dust V7

The Dusty Boulder is quite hard to find as it is hidden from view if you are above it and only the top can be seen from below. To find it from above walk up to the right hand side of the prow and walk directly right for 50 to 60m the Dusty boulder is down on your right hand side, most easily spotted by its newly cleaned top. Best method to get to the base of it is fall off the top, or walk round to the far edge and descend carefuly down a chute to the base but be warned!!! at the bottom of the chute there is a big hole i described earlier that if you fall down you wil come out the other end broken. Or from the bottom pass the big roof project and walk pass what i believe to be the boulder with skredriver on it, from here the boulder is up on your left hand side and you have to climb up to get to it. Brin is getting bigger and bigger and there are still plenty more lines, I have a few that are yet to be cleaned So get out there! Jamie

The Mini Mecca

2008-01-07T20:03:00.000Z

Project 1moving out onto the face

Clear blue skys, freezing cold temperatures, there was only one place to head today and that was to brin boulders. I say this as Mike and Ben refer to it as "The Mecca" of scottish bouldering and i must admit i am coming round to their way of thinking i like it more and more every time i go and there is still loads of potential (most of the big lines if you fall off you will end up in a hole but thats part of the challenge i supose).

With plenty skin and psyche levels way up, Nick and I headed up the hill(after i fell over the fence) to the Happy boulder which has a good variety of superb problems, after a quick warm up on Rhuaridh's Crack and Carpet Slab, we moved attention to The Dreaded Dreadlock V4 which was promtly flashed thankfully, although the top out feels decidedly dodgy and a long way for the misplaced boulder mats below. Next was Spirited V5 which didnt fall so easily, Nick flashed it with ease the other day yet neither of us could work out how, but after 10 minutes it was done! We then tried Mikes new problem from last week, the un-named direct start (v7)to the dyno, a powerful move at the bottom leads to a short sequence then finishing with a Big dyno over an okish landing. Nic did all the moves up to the start of the dyno but couldnt commit to the dyno (understandably as he is going a way in 2months so needs both ankles), i can however stick the dyno but failed on the move to it, i had the hold well, held it for a second and then peeled off, felt so close to latching it as once i had it the route was over as iv done the rest.But it wasnt to be, so if the rain stops il be up there tommorow to finish it off!!!

Nick on the desperate finish to project 1

Over on the porcupine boulder i spotted a new line that with a good clean looked to be a good problem. Porcupine takes a rightward and upward slanting traverse to the obvious weakness however "Sting in the tail" starts down in the very back left of the boulder(possible same starting holds??) and takes a line of very sharp sloping holds along the lip of the overhang until a crystal sharp arete is reached that helps you make a powerful move to gain the top of the scorpian crack and pull over direct. Its a good pumpy problem that took abit of work and plenty of heel hooks. Painfully sharp slopers that lead to 7 taped fingers a painful loss of skin. Looked like Nic was going to beat me to it but failed just short of the finish due to being to tired from the second project. We agreed on V5 it does however appear to be slightly harder than Scorpian also graded V5 but either way its a cool line on an excellent boulder. We also looked at a harder variation that may seem slightly eliminate but when it goes will be a truly awsome line! After taking the slopers along the lip the line continues onto the blank face(without the use of the arete) where desperate tiny slopers lead to the top, Nic came agonisingly close and it will be sent within another session or 2 i am certain.Looks to be about v6/7. Project 2 is a direct start to this coming out under the buldge onto tiny crimps to reach the slopers to gain the top. Looks very hard.... We will be back on it soon. Just before leaving i set about cleaning another line that looks to be good but was soaking wet as it was under inches of moss! There are more projects to be had, get out there!! Jamie

Sting in the Tail

Am fasgdh and Moy

2008-01-06T17:51:00.000Z

Bit slow on the update but there were more important things to do, like climb! Woke up the morning after ruthven and rather than letting skin regrow decided to tape over the top of the sore bits and head to the west coast to Gruinard Bay. With a group of 6 of us it made for a good days climbing, headed to Am fasgdh which is hard to say the least and made even harder by the fact fingers and toes were numb by the time you reached the first bolt due to the cold.

I set about work on the encouaragingly named "warm up route (7b)" which didnt do much for the self esteam. After the third attempt i could see that it would go in two sections yet i was too cold to get any closer, gives me something to go back to though as i was annoyed it didnt go. Am fasgdh lived up to its hard reputation and only 2 routes were repeated in the whole day, with andy sending curving crack (7b+) and Mike repeating Bogtalla (7c). The rest of the time was spent falling off things repeatedly untill we were too tired to fall anymore.

Nick working hard on Bogtalla (7c)

Warm up route(7b)

So after 4 days in a row a rest was needed due to lack of skin and 1 split tip, wrong, the weather was too good come morning so back in the car to get Mike and off to the newly bolted Moy Rock which it is clear to see Andy has put alot of time and effort into developing. Neither of us felt up to much but mike set off up the dark side with ease, i followed and gave up half way, no motivation at all! That set the tone for the rest of the day, Mike had a quick session on the seer looking for the third ascent but was unlucky due to the cold and some popping pebbles. So with that we gave up and headed home. An impressive intimidating crag which needs some stamina!! something i seem to lack...

Now had two days rest and there is a reasonably setteled forcast of -2' for most of the week so hoping to get a few days out climbing. Its been a week of falling off things so hopefully this week that will change, although i ran over my foot with the camper van today(long story) so have a fat right foot but should still fit in my shoe! Fingers crossed!

Winter Sessions

2008-01-01T20:50:00.000Z

Met nick and Donald up at Ruthven boulder today,conditions wernt exactly ideal so we didnt expect to get much done, and we were right...

Every line was soaking wet with water dripping off of most holds it was near impossible to climb anything, the only route that was worth an attempt was razors edge(V6) so after 15 mins of drying out holds repeatedly and Nick colouring in the rock with chalk we were off, all worked the route well and it will definetly go when its dry but it wasnt to be today Everytime you felt confident in a move you would reach the next hold and it was wet again and you were spat off minus a finger print or two. All three of us managed to cut an identicle whole in the right little finger so it was time to call it a day. Good sequence though so we will be back to finish it in the next few weeks! Instead we packed up and headed for the garage and did a killer session of 35' Overhang on only slopers. Not many photos as i only took a couple, i will add more if i get copys. Maybe a day off now to allow for some new skin....